A custom jewelry commission can use a wide range of materials, including precious metals such as gold and platinum, diamonds, colored gemstones, and pearls. The exact options depend on your design vision, intended use, and budget. The sections below address the most common questions about material choices in bespoke jewelry.

Which precious metals are available for a custom jewelry commission?

The most common precious metals for a custom jewelry commission are gold and platinum. Gold is available in yellow, white, and rose variations, each achieved through different alloy compositions. Platinum is denser and naturally white, making it a popular choice for settings that require exceptional durability and a cool, refined finish.

Gold is typically worked in 18 karat or 14 karat purity. 18 karat gold contains a higher proportion of pure gold, which gives it a richer color and a slightly softer feel, while 14 karat gold offers greater hardness and is well suited to pieces worn daily. White gold is alloyed with metals such as palladium and is often finished with rhodium plating to enhance its brightness. Rose gold achieves its warm tone through a higher copper content in the alloy.

Platinum is the most prestigious choice for fine jewelry. It is hypoallergenic, highly resistant to wear, and holds gemstone settings with exceptional security. Because platinum is denser than gold, pieces made in platinum carry more weight and require more material, which is reflected in the overall cost of the commission.

At our atelier, we work exclusively with high-quality precious metals to ensure that every custom piece meets the standards our clients expect from bespoke jewelry.

What types of gemstones can be set in a custom piece?

A custom jewelry piece can incorporate diamonds, colored gemstones, or a combination of both. Diamonds remain the most requested stone for bespoke jewelry, valued for their brilliance, durability, and versatility. Colored gemstones such as sapphires, rubies, emeralds, aquamarines, and tourmalines allow for a more personal and expressive design.

Diamonds are graded by cut, color, clarity, and carat weight. These four criteria directly influence both the visual impact of the stone and its price. For colored gemstones, factors such as hue, saturation, tone, and origin play a comparable role in determining quality and value.

Our team includes certified gemologists who can guide you through stone selection, ensuring that the gemstones chosen for your commission are both beautiful and appropriate for the intended setting and wear conditions. Certain stones, such as emeralds, require protective settings because of their natural inclusions, while harder stones like sapphires and rubies are well suited to a broader range of setting styles.

Can pearls be used in a custom jewelry commission?

Yes, pearls can absolutely be incorporated into a custom jewelry commission. Pearls bring a distinctive organic elegance to bespoke pieces and work beautifully in rings, pendants, earrings, and bracelets. Both cultured and natural pearls can be considered, with variations including Akoya, South Sea, Tahitian, and freshwater pearls, each offering a different size, luster, and color range.

We have dedicated pearl expertise within our team, which means we can help you select pearls that complement your chosen metal and overall design. Pearl quality is assessed through luster, surface quality, shape, size, and color. High-luster pearls with minimal surface blemishes and a well-rounded shape are considered the finest, and these distinctions are clearly visible in the finished piece.

How does material choice affect the cost of a custom commission?

Material choice is one of the primary drivers of cost in a custom jewelry commission. The type of metal, the quality and size of gemstones, and the complexity of the setting all contribute to the final price. Platinum commands a higher price than gold due to its density and rarity, while larger or rarer gemstones increase cost significantly.

Within gemstones, the four quality criteria for diamonds and the equivalent factors for colored stones create a wide price range even within the same stone variety. A one-carat diamond of exceptional cut, color, and clarity will cost considerably more than a one-carat stone of lower grades. Similarly, certain colored gemstones such as fine rubies or Kashmir sapphires are among the most valuable materials available in jewelry.

It is worth noting that material cost and craftsmanship cost are distinct. A piece requiring intricate hand-setting, engraving, or complex goldsmithing will carry higher labor costs regardless of the materials used. Understanding both components helps set realistic expectations when planning a bespoke commission.

What should you consider when choosing materials for a custom piece?

When choosing materials for a custom jewelry commission, the most important considerations are intended use, personal style, durability requirements, and budget. A piece worn daily needs harder, more resilient materials and secure settings, while a piece reserved for special occasions allows for more delicate choices.

• Intended use: Everyday jewelry benefits from harder gemstones and durable metal alloys. Platinum or 14 karat gold paired with diamonds or sapphires is a practical choice for rings worn continuously.
• Skin tone and personal style: Yellow gold complements warm skin tones, while white gold and platinum suit cooler tones. Rose gold offers a softer, warmer alternative that works across a wide range of complexions.
• Meaning and symbolism: Many clients choose gemstones with personal significance, such as birthstones or stones associated with a particular memory or occasion.
• Longevity: High-quality materials retain their beauty over generations. Choosing well means the piece can be passed down as a family heirloom.
• Budget: Being clear about your budget from the start allows our designers and gemologists to suggest the best possible combination of materials within your range, without compromising on quality or character.

Our jewelry design and manufacturing process begins with a personal consultation where we discuss all of these factors together. The goal is always to create a piece that reflects your vision while making informed, lasting material choices.